The Christmas and New Year’s season is a time when many Cook Islands families residing overseas return to Rarotonga and their home islands in the Pa Enua. They come to reconnect with their families and celebrate the festive season together. Cook Islands News senior journalist Melina Etches experienced this firsthand, travelling to Ma’uke for the Christmas break.

Ma’uke, also known as Akatokamanava, bursts in festive cheer with its annual “Teretere” or “Roni” event, a traditional exchange between villages held on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

During this joyous occasion, one village welcomes the other with open arms, sharing food and drinks in their homes.

This year, Kimiangatau Village, nestled along the northwestern coast, hosted Oiretumu Village (Areora-Makatea-Ngatiarua) on Christmas Day. On New Year’s Day, the roles will reverse, with Oiretumu reciprocating the warm hospitality to Kimiangatau.

After many years away living in Australia, this year Moira (nee Guinea) returned to her home island of Mauke with her husband Beal Vogel Beal, their five children and friends, to celebrate and join in the Christmas festivities. They stayed at the Guinea Homestead in Parai, Kimiangatau.

Tanga Tura Tua “Papa Makave”, the Island Government’s representative, enjoys the Teretere on Christmas Day. MELINA ETCHES/23122920

They were the first ones to host Oiretumu on Christmas Day.

Preparations for the Teretere began the day before Christmas, as whole households bustled with activity. Goats and chickens were butchered, fresh garlic and ginger peeled for fragrant curries, tables set up, and gas cookers and extra-large pots borrowed.

It was a perfect Christmas Day with beautiful sunshine and cool breeze in the shade of the trees.

The Beal family was up bright and early on Christmas morning, the kids wrapping tinsel around the ara (pandanus) and tipani trees, hanging ballons and festive decorations to welcome the Teretere. Chef Mick Shanker and his wife Claudia (née Turua), Beal and Andy O’Brien, meanwhile, took charge of the kitchen, conjuring up seriously delicious spicy curries, while the kids whipped up a refreshing punch to wash it all down.

Those who were not needed for the final preparations dressed in their Sunday best to attend the CICC Oliveta Church Christmas service.

At 12 noon, and on time, not island time, the first group from Oiretumu arrived dazzling in their bright pink t-shirts.

Papa Orometua opened the festivities with a prayer, followed by the Oiretumu string band’s electrifying performance, supported by their over 100 strong group, setting the perfect tone for the day’s celebrations.

After a few songs and some savouring the meals and drinks, the visiting congregation then walked on to visit other homes in the village singing songs until the last home, finishing up around 4.30pm.

“I loved having all my kids come home to experience what Christmas is all about here in Mauke - family, community, and love,” says Moira Beal.

“It was a trip down memory lane for Andy (cousin) and I with our grandma and my parents (the late Dr Archie and Kura Guinea) being our focal point and our Ma’uke people bringing along with them fun and celebration in our unique way of the Teretere.

“I had hoped the kids would love it as much as I do, and they have fallen in love with our traditional Teretere and our way of life. It is everything I remembered and more.”

Adding to the festive cheer, Moira shared the joyful news that their eldest child, Sterling, proposed to his girlfriend Charlotte (Stanley) on Christmas Day. The heartwarming moment was witnessed by Charlotte’s mother Debbie and brother Toby, who were also experiencing the beauty of the island for the first time.

Seventy-five-year-old Tanga Tura Tua “Papa Makave”, the Island Government’s representative, was born, raised and has lived on Ma’uke all his life.

Tua says for as long as he can remember, the Teretere has always been celebrated on the island – “it is the time of the year when we give our thanks to the Lord”.

“Ko te Teretere ko tetai tuatau teia e akaoki ana matou te akameitakianga ki te atua.”

Tua recalls the time, years ago, when the Teretere saw 1000 participants.

Seventy-eight-year-old Mama Mii Tairea Tua from Oiretumu says she’s “so happy” to see that the Teretere tradition is still being practiced.

Back in her younger days, she says the Teretere was a huge, happy event – “Tuatau mua koia tikae te tangata, me tere, mataora”.

Mama Tua says the Teretere is for the whole island, for everyone, not just for the CICC church, “e angaanga taokotai teia no matou katoatoa”.

There were other special events celebrated on the island during the Christmas period, including: The Tepaeru and Matapo Reunion, the unveiling ceremonies for brothers Tereapii “Ine” Vaine Keu (20 January, 1968 – 11 February, 2021) and Jack Tekeu Nui o te Rangi Vaine Keu (22 April, 1963 – 16 October, 2021), Te Marae Ora nurse Ngariki-O-Tini “Aunty Tintin” Vaine Keu’s 65^th birthday party, Matamaru Sao’s 21^st Birthday, and the island’s Christmas in the Park event.