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Island time and warm smiles

Saturday 1 June 2024 | Written by Melina Etches | Published in Features, Go Local, Weekend

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Island time and warm smiles
Four times a week, school teacher and fitness instructor Mii Mataio conducts fitness classes. MELINA ETCHES/24052411

Cook Islands News senior journalist Melina Etches recently visited Atiu to cover the Tamariki Api’i Kūki ʻĀirani – TAKA Educational Trust sponsorship handover. While there, she delved into the island’s unique lifestyle, exploring cultural sites and meeting the welcoming locals.

Atiu, also known as Enuamanu (land of birds), is an island over eight million years old. It’s the third-largest island in the Cook Islands.

The island is quiet and beautiful, filled with lush native plants that paint its landscapes in vivid hues of green.

Atiu has five small villages of Tengatangi, Areora, Ngatiarua, Mapumai, and Teenui in the centre, with a population of around 380.

Like the rest of the Cook Islands, the people of Atiu are heartwarming, and welcoming.


Tearoa Windy (front middle) is the first recipient of the Tamariki Api’i Kūki ʻĀirani – TAKA Educational Trust. She is pictured with her Year 11 class and teacher Ngamaru Tupuna Ariki. MELINA ETCHES/24052413

There is no need to wear a helmet in Atiu so you can drive around with the wind in your hair – and nod or raise your eyebrow to acknowledge oncoming traffic.

Visitors are welcome to the peaceful island and there are several accommodation places including Atiu Villas, Kia Orana Bungalows, and Papa Una’s Lodges for a comfortable restful holiday break.

The tar-sealed roads make the drive to the lodges, town centre, and surrounding areas very comfortable – a benefit locals say extends to their vehicles as well.

Papa Una’s Lodges has two comfortable self-contained units about a four-minute drive from the airport heading towards town, in the village of Te’enui.


Papa Una’s Lodges – self-contained and air-conditioned lodges in Te’enui. MELINA ETCHES/24052433

The construction of the lodges began in November 2022. It was completed in January 2023 under the management of Linda Kauvai-Howard, one of Papa Unakea Kauvai’s daughters who regularly travels to Atiu from Rarotonga to check up on the property.

Each lodge features an air conditioner, a queen and single bed, a kettle, a kitchenette with a two-burner electric stove, a shower with solar run hot water and a toilet, and a washing machine for guests to share the use of in the garage space.

Kauvai-Howard enjoys spending time on the island improving the lodges, and planting flowers and fruit.

She has grown chilli trees, a bounty of rosemary, pawpaw’s, pumpkin, and bele (Fijian rukau) for guests to enjoy.

Kauvai-Howard says their family has plans to add another two lodges onto the property shortly.

Makitua Boaza and her husband moved to Atiu from Rarotonga to manage the Kia Orana Bungalows. The Boazas also conduct interesting tours around the island for their guests.


Makitua Boaza and her husband manage the Kia Orana Bungalows in Ātiu. MELINA ETCHES/24052408

For a delicious bite, don’t miss the charming Areora Café, built by the wonderful Paruarangi Tavioni.

An energetic and delightful Tavioni says she was feeling relieved a few years ago when her daughter, Cook Islands designer Ellena Tavioni of TAV, took over the café’s operations and management.

At Atiu School, Ngamaru Tupuna Ariki can be found in the classroom teaching Year 10 and Year 11 students. She started teaching in 2022.

Ngamaru Tupuna Ariki was invested with the title in July 2021 at the age of 25.

Since her investiture, she has settled comfortably into her role.

“When you’re living here it just grows on you, everything grows on you.”

  • Melina Etches’ trip was made possible with the support of Air Rarotonga and TAKA Trust. Papa Una’s Lodges and Linda Kauvai-Howard provided her with warm hospitality and took care of driving duties. Air Rarotonga offers flights to Atiu four times a week.